Day after day, we go through the motions
Like waves searching for shore in the middle of the ocean..”
For over 400 years, national award winner Abdul Gafur Khatri
and his family have dedicated themselves to creating exquisite
patterns on bridal trousseaus, canvases, bedsheets, and
cushion covers with equal finesse.
In a world dominated by mass-produced goods, art forms like
Rogan, practiced by generations of artists like Khatri, stand
as a testament to human creativity and cultural heritage.
Rogan painting took shape in Nirona, in the Kutch region of Gujarat,
India, over four centuries ago. This ancient art form finds its
roots in the unique technique of making Rogan, a thick paste derived
from castor oil. Skilled practitioners of the art form meticulously
handcraft intricate designs using a metal stylus and vibrant
pigments.
Rogan painting demands not only artistic flair but also a deep
understanding of the chemical properties of castor oil and pigments.
The artisans mix castor oil with natural pigments to create Rogan
that maintains its vibrancy for generations.
The tedious art form gained such popularity for its uniqueness that
Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi presented the then-US President
Barack Obama with a "Tree of Life" Rogan painting during his visit
to the US in September 2014.
The initial step involves extracting oil from castor seeds by simmering the seeds intermittently for 12-14 hours, stretched across two days. They then combine the heated castor oil with cold water to produce a thickened, slimy substance that we now know as Rogan.
Once the Rogan is produced, it is mixed with paints of various colors and water using a
traditional pestle.
Typically, a dark-colored fabric forms the base for the artwork. The artist takes a portion of the paint and coils it in their palm using a "kalam" (a six-inch iron stick), ensuring it reaches the desired consistency. The warmth from the palm softens the dense paint, allowing the artist to shape it
into a thread.
By gently maneuvering the rod above the fabric as fine lines, the artist applies the paint onto the fabric, producing intricate patterns that tell tales of culture, folklore, and spirituality.
In recent decades, Rogan painting has faced the threat of extinction. As modernization sweeps through communities, younger generations are increasingly drawn to more lucrative and accessible professions, leaving Rogan in peril. The knowledge and skills required to create these mesmerizing patterns risk fading into obscurity.
In an interview with Outlook Traveller India, Rogan pioneer Abdul Gafur Khatri stated Rogan requires high concentration, dedication, and patience–each of which poses a pressing threat to its sustenance. Gafur also shared how the number of Nirona families practicing Rogan declined over the years because of orthodox requirements and low-income opportunities, making it difficult to pursue it as a full-time profession.