Save Dying Arts

Reminiscing the Forgotten Taste Bandel Cheese Making

In the heart of West Bengal, amidst the lush, fertile lands along the banks of the Hooghly River, lies a craft that whispers tales of a bygone era - Bandel Cheese Making. This salty, delicate cheese with a rich history, holds a special place in the cultural fabric of the region.

Tracing back the origins

According to local historians, the story of Bandel Cheese Making traces its origins back to the early days of the Portuguese settlement in India. When Vasco da Gama came to India, the Portuguese introduced the process of milk curdling to produce chhena, or chhana, demystifying the age-old taboo. Bandel cheese is made from this chhana, which also serves as the main ingredient for many Bengali sweets like sandesh and rasgulla.

According to history and culinary blogger Rangan Datta, Bandel cheese was made by the Burmese cooks under Portuguese supervision.

What makes Bandel cheese so extraordinary is not just its delectable taste, but the meticulous process that goes into its creation. Skilled artisans, often handed down the craft through generations, use a blend of age-old techniques and a touch of their own ingenuity. The result? A cheese that boasts a texture and flavor profile that's truly unparalleled and deserving of a GI tag.

Palash Ghosh, a representative of the original makers of Bandel cheese, stated that crafting this cheese demands an arduous three-hour process of meticulous kneading and nurturing to make the cheese traditionally.

A Vanishing taste

Sadly, Bandel Cheese Making is now at risk of vanishing. As modernization sweeps through the region, the demand for traditional Bandel cheese has dwindled. Cheese-makers, once the pride of their communities, now struggle to sustain their craft.

Palash shared that this used to be the family profession and how he learnt the art during his late teens. But with a grieving heart Palash commented that the latest generations have given up on the craft and now it’s just his father and him protecting the heritage.

The challenges faced by Bandel Cheese Making are myriad. Limited market exposure and distribution channels mean these artisans often cannot connect with a broader audience. As supermarkets are stocked with mass-produced varieties, the unique, handcrafted Bandel cheese is pushed further into obscurity. Sadly, the production of this cheese has ceased in Bandel. Only a few families near Arambagh (a town in Hooghly) persist in the cheese-making tradition, supplying it to a couple of shops in New Market.

The aging artisans who hold the key to this craft are finding it increasingly difficult to pass on their knowledge and skills to the next generation. The intricate nuances of Bandel Cheese Making, honed over centuries, risk being lost forever.

A call for conservation

Lately, there have been isolated initiatives aimed at promoting Bandel cheese, leading to its inclusion in the menus of select five-star hotels. Endeavors are underway to make it accessible through online platforms.

In 2017, Jadavpur University's Food Technology and Biochemical Engineering Department, led by associate professor Debabrata Bera and assisted by professor Lakshmishri Roy of Techno India, began a government-funded study to produce Bandel cheese in a scientifically controlled environment.

The project seeks to assess the economic viability of the cheese in both domestic and international markets, potentially leading to a geographical identification (GI) tag. It also includes training for current artisans involved in cheese making.

Save Dying Arts is a nod in that direction and aims to provide a global platform that bridges the gap between artisans and enthusiasts. As you savor a slice of Bandel cheese, let it serve as a reminder of the artisans whose hands crafted this masterpiece and of the legacy we can preserve.

Together, we can ensure that the art of Bandel Cheese Making continues to grace our tables, enriching our lives and honoring the cultural heritage it represents.

Join us in this journey to save a craft that deserves its place in history

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